Being a perfume collector with a weak spot for vintages, I knew there was an empty place waiting to be filled with a fragrance that is among my absolute favorites of all time, but somehow, it never made it onto my shelves: Eau d'Hermès. This year, I decided to fill that gap and buy a bottle. I wanted to buy it in person, at a shop, like in the old days. I couldn't. I went to Milan, and nobody had ...